2000 WorldWide Race Trailer

First off so that no one is really confused about this, WorldWide Trailers was an extension or sub-builder for Vintage Trailers. They went out of business about two-three years after I bought my unit and from what I can tell were supposed to be an up scale edition of the regular Vintage Trailer. At the time I bought this, they had a number of options that were not offered on the Vintage unit, but if you put my unit next to a Vintage trailer and take off the markings you would have a hard time telling them apart. Now, the downside is that the standard Vintage trailer is not a world class unit by any stretch. But for the money I still think they are a decent buy especially for the first time enclosed trailer buyer. Another thing is the cost of new trailers today. Sure you can go all out and buy one with every conceivable option they have, but you don't have to do that either. A new trailer can now be purchased identical to mine for less money today. That they have actually gone down in price just proves that there is a very competitive market out there.

So how much of a project can a big box actually be? When you're trying to keep it organized so that you can find something in the heat of competition, it can be a real challenge. Our unit was a basic "box" with beavertail, interior walls, two 12v lights, two air vents, 5200 lb axles, 6 inches taller and not much else. Picked up at the factory in Indiana, we paid $6400 out the door for it. Some people have asked why I ordered it with a beavertail since I was hauling a dragster and my reason was simply re-sell value. But at this point in time, I don't see myself buying another one so that was a mistake. If you have a door car, by all means go for the beavertail, but on a dragster it means you have to jack up the front of the trailer to load and unload the car.

Our first addition to the unit was a set of cabinets from a local doctor's office that was being remodeled. Not the lightest cabinets you have ever seen, but the cost was perfect - free. We were given 5 wall units and 3 floor units, the floor units were placed on the right side with a Craftsman combination tool box mounted ahead of them and next to the door. The toolbox was turned 90 degrees so that we could access it from the doorway and not have to step up into the trailer to retrieve a tool. Next, we mounted two of the wall units above the floor units, then mounted the other three wall units on the left hand wall. Overall it added a lot of storage space to the trailer very quickly. Our next move was to install a counter top on top of the floor units. A quick run to Lowe's produced a slightly dinged but new counter top that we bought for $15. We now had storage and work area for the grand sum of $15 plus the cost of self-tapping metal screws. Not too bad at all.

Up to this point, our flooring was just the original plywood sheathing that was covered with a coat of outdoor porch paint. Whatever you do, make sure on a new trailer or even an older one, paint the floor. It will go a long way towards preserving what you have. Plywood doesn't do very well with water and other spills, so the paint coating can help a lot and even if you plan on covering the surface the paint is a plus. We bought the traditional black/white checkered peel and stick tiles for our unit, but only did the area from the trailer cargo door up to the back edge of the first storage unit. From there a piece of indoor/outdoor gray carpet covers everything else up to the front. It gives the unit a nice finished look and the tile at the back allows for anything that might come out of the engine or transmission. When we installed the carpeting, one of the issues was how to hold it in place. We did use a staple gun along the edges, but to make it look nice, we bought some 1/16 inch thick by 3/4 inch wide aluminum angle stock. This was cut to fit, installed with some more self-tapping screws and really gave the carpet a finished appearance.

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